Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki are two of the most renowned figures in Japan’s competitive climbing scene. Often referred to as the “king” and “queen” of comp climbing in Japan, their home gym is nothing short of extraordinary. Recently, Magnus Midtbø had the privilege of visiting their rural Japanese gym and capturing his experience in a video that has just been released.
The training facility features three large bouldering walls, including both comp-style and spray wall sets, an 18-metre lead wall with eight bolt lines, a full-sized speed wall, as well as a truck with a platform lift to aid in setting routes. Additionally, there is a spacious training room complete with weights and exercise equipment. Midtbø was struck by the gym’s incredible design, describing it as the craziest he has ever seen and comparing it to an exclusive commercial gym reserved for Narasaki and Noguchi’s use alone.
Narasaki’s impressive climbing career includes multiple gold medals at Boulder World Cups and World Championships, solidifying his status as one of Japan’s top competitors. He has already qualified for the upcoming Paris Olympics after achieving remarkable success at previous events. On the other hand, Noguchi retired as one of Japan’s most decorated comp-climbing boulderers in history. Her impressive record includes over 21 gold medals in World Cup and World Championship competitions, cementing her place as a legend in the sport. She has also claimed numerous silver and bronze medals throughout her illustrious career.
With their remarkable accomplishments and dedication to excellence, Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi have set a high standard within Japan’s competitive climbing scene. Their home gym serves as a testament to their passion for the sport and their commitment to pushing themselves to new heights.